{"id":10290,"date":"2025-03-04T16:46:31","date_gmt":"2025-03-04T15:46:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.streetpepper.de\/worldtravel\/?p=10290"},"modified":"2025-05-11T11:26:59","modified_gmt":"2025-05-11T09:26:59","slug":"new-orleans-we-have-a-problem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.streetpepper.de\/worldtravel\/2025\/03\/04\/new-orleans-we-have-a-problem\/","title":{"rendered":"New Orleans – We have a problem"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

We roll into New Orleans in the evening, greeted by a lovely 24 degrees Celsius. Life is good. The next morning, though? Bam! Icy wind, 4 degrees. Definitely not<\/em> what we have packed for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

New Orleans \u2014 the city that was hit so hard by a storm<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Hurricane Katrina in 2005 hit the city, then it lost much of its original charm and 1836 people lost their lives. It\u2019s not exactly new that money pushes out poorer folks when neighborhoods suddenly become trendy. But here, it happened at lightning speed. For the people in the poorer parts of the city, it hit like a freight train. The whole city sits slightly below sea level, and when the water came, it stuck around for days\u2026 looting, no real rebuilding, and in the end, a city sold off piece by piece. Today? A hip tourist destination. Honestly, not really our thing. If you\u2019re lucky, you can still catch a whiff of the old charm walking through the outskirts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

New Orleans – I have a certain image in my head. Famous for its warm, sensual, cheerful and slightly wicked atmosphere – a mixture of music, pleasure, joie de vivre and melancholy. Imagine narrow cobbled streets in the French Quarter with jazz trumpets, saxophones and the rhythmic stomping of feet on old wooden floors emanating from the open windows. It’s hot, the air sweltering, the fans turning in every room and on the verandas. On wrought-iron balconies, people sit laughing in flowing dresses and straw hats, sipping a glass of Sazerac or a cold beer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sazerac cocktail<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Sazerac is a classic cocktail, traditionally made with rye whiskey, absinthe, Peychaud\u2019s bitters, and sugar. It\u2019s considered one of the oldest known American cocktails and has its origins in New Orleans. Here, a culture of improvisation thrives: musicians gathering spontaneously on the street, colorful parades with people dancing in feathers and beads, wild masquerades, and the sense that life is short \u2014 so you\u2019d better savor it now. But New Orleans is also soaked in a bittersweet heaviness: the old cobblestones whisper of the history of slavery, Hurricane Katrina still echoes as an open wound, and in the damp, sultry heat, there\u2019s always a hint of transience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

New Orleans – the old spirit is gone<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We experience none of that old spirit. Either that carefree spirit no longer exists, or it\u2019s simply because we are greeted in this city by freezing temperatures and an icy wind. Well then, I suppose I\u2019ll just stick with the fantasies in my mind \u2014 far more beautiful than reality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Did I mention it\u2019s freezing? We have a problem. I go on a mission to buy us gloves and long underwear \u2014 both for cycling and surviving the upcoming freezing nights in the tent. Florida, the Sunshine State<\/em>, has promised us 14 days of arctic adventure with snow and freezing rain. Okay, deep breath: 14 days \u2014 we\u2019ve survived worse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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After three nights in New Orleans, we\u2019re back on the road. We opt for some \u201cadventurous\u201d routes \u2014 roads officially closed, but hey, the bike community says you can just lift your bikes over the barriers. So we do. It works! Boom, we skip a 280 km detour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With no cars around, it\u2019s blissfully quiet. Except\u2026 some folks have decided these roads make excellent illegal dumping grounds. Mountains of discarded junk line the way. Well, humans will be humans. We shake our heads, shrug, and pedal on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That night, we camp in a spot clearly not<\/em> designed for tents. No showers, no bathrooms \u2014 but the owner runs a laundromat, so at least we get a toilet and a sink. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We wake up to a thin layer of ice on the tent. The sun\u2019s out, but it\u2019s just decorative \u2014 no warmth. After three shivering nights, I call it: we need a room. Slowly, we defrost. Everyone keeps telling us this weather is totally unusual for Florida \u2014 gee, thanks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Primitive Camping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Next night, we\u2019re back at it, in a Florida state park. Here, they call it \u201cprimitive camping\u201d \u2014 a silly term, really,  I really think it\u2019s the luxury kind of camping, but it means you\u2019re allowed to wild camp inside the park. Five bucks per person, per night, and you get the legal right to pitch your tent plus a ranger\u2019s friendly smile. We refill our bottles at the entrance and push our bikes a few hundred meters through the sand. I wish<\/em> it weren\u2019t so cold, because the scenery is breathtaking \u2014 dunes, trees, brilliant white sand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Morning comes, and we\u2019re so frozen we skip coffee (yes, really). We make a stop at a Waffle House \u2014 classic American breakfast, steaming coffee, and the kindest lady serving us with a smile. Heaven.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The days blur together: frost, icy roads, and stunning landscapes. State parks and Warmshowers<\/a> hosts help us along, one step at a time, until we reach Tallahassee. There, we meet Klaus\u2019 sister, visiting from Africa with her husband, Karl. Their visits are rare, but lucky us, our paths cross. We camp in the garage for a few nights and spend hours talking \u2014 absolutely wonderful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Some quotes from Marc Twain<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Meanwhile, I keep pondering what this whole traveling thing is really about. A few Mark Twain quotes cross my path.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sure, his books were groundbreaking back in the day, though today they deserve a critical eye. Still, I love the fact that people like him have always been around \u2014 and always will be \u2014 people who don\u2019t just accept the world as others tell them it is or should be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m not usually a fan of quotes, but here are a few I can\u2019t resist. Mark Twain blended humor, wisdom, and a certain art of living \u2014 and I like that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On travel and prejudice:<\/strong> \u201cTravel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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On courage:<\/strong> \u201cCourage is resistance to fear, mastery of fear \u2014 not absence of fear.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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On age:<\/strong> “Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don\u2019t mind, it doesn\u2019t matter.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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On life in general:<\/strong> \u201cSometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Some extra fun fact. We are Germans. Germans love their bread. Being without any good bread for almost three years, we were so excited to find “Wasa Kn\u00e4ckebrot”, a very special and delicious crisp bread. And of course we bought one from each kind we could find.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We roll into New Orleans […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10279,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_coblocks_attr":"","_coblocks_dimensions":"","_coblocks_responsive_height":"","_coblocks_accordion_ie_support":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4,71],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10290","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cycling-world-tour","category-usa"],"yoast_head":"\nNew Orleans - We have a problem - world travel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We reached New Orleans on our world cycling tour. 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