We are finally getting to grips with the altitude and have arrived in Quito, the capital of Ecuador at a altitude of 2800 metres. Quito lies in the Andes and is surrounded by volcanoes.
I could write something like that about this city:
Quito, the capital of Ecuador, the heavenly crown of the Andes, is a city straight out of a fairy tale, a place where time seems to stand still and romance blossoms in every corner. The city nestles against the slopes of the Andes, at an altitude so close to the stars that you could touch the sky at night. In the cobbled streets of the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can feel the magic of past centuries. The colourful colonial houses with their flower-adorned balconies tell of an era of splendour and glamour and stories of lovers who met under the arcades by moonlight. The magnificent churches, such as the Basilica del Voto Nacional, rise majestically into the sky and their bells ring like gentle whispers of love in the wind.
Here, where time seems to stand still, the shadows of the past merge with the dreams of the present. A walk through Parque La Carolina, hand in hand with your loved one, is like a dream that doesn’t want to end. The soft sounds of traditional music blaring from the surrounding cafés create a backdrop straight out of a romantic film. Quito, with its enchanting blend of history, culture and natural beauty, is a place where romance lives in every corner. Here you can forget the time…
Well, that sounds nice. Could this city be one of your next holiday destinations? I’ve never really understood what all has to come together to get this or at least a similar impression of a place.
In Quito, a lot just came together
We rolled into the city, or rather pedalled up and down the hills, and then we sat in a square in the old town and knew we liked it here. And we stayed for a whole week.
The UNESCO World Heritage status has led to a reorganisation of the transport system in the Quito metropolitan area. It led to the creation of extra lanes for public transport, the establishment of pedestrian zones and cycle corridors. Last but not least the construction of a metro line. The only challenge with the latter is getting in on the right side. There is only one line that runs from north to south.
These measures not only protect the World Heritage Site but also contribute to improving the quality of life of the inhabitants.
Quito is not a picture-book city
Of course, it is not a picture-book city. The zebra crossings are purely for decoration, stinking black exhaust fumes pollute the air and the police are present everywhere. But it seems that they are on the right track here. Everywhere you look, you can see that a lot of emphasis is being placed on hygiene in the food sector. There are even courses for the juice woman on the corner to improve her hygiene standards. She is proud of it and we are happy to get a healthy fresh juice on the way.
Every Sunday, a 28-kilometre corridor from south to north in the city is open to cyclists and pedestrians, cars are banned.
And we use it. We look at how this city treats its inhabitants. And it’s obvious that the city is doing something for its citizens. The city is there for its citizens, not the other way round.
We visit a museum with contemporary art, we eat pizza at an Italian, who made Quito his home many years ago. We listen to the sounds of the „Dùo Pasional“ singers, the Pasillo sound and found out why Alexander von Humboldt wondered during his visit to Ecuador how people could be so cheerful when listening to such sad music. It seems as if we are wandering through the streets in a daze. A lightness that we haven’t felt for a very long time.
And this despite the massive number of churches, some of which are decorated with so much gold in the interiors that it can make you dizzy.
Small Jesus dolls in elaborate or contemporary costumes are on sale everywhere. Yes, this is supposed to be Jesus.
Well-meaning devil
This colourful mask represents the “Diablo Huma”, the human devil. He is the main character at the Sun Festival, which is celebrated in the Andean region of Ecuador every year during the winter solstice in the southern hemisphere. During this festival, the indigenous people show their gratitude to the Earth Mother for the harvest and for the sun that ripens the crops.
The Huma mask is worn by a man normally :-). The Diablo Huma takes the leading role in the ritual dances. He embodies supernatural powers and represents the living energy of nature.
When the Spanish conquistadors came to Latin America, the traditional indigenous religious terms were mixed with expressions such as devil, Lucifer or Satan. For example, the Huma mask was given the nickname “devil”, but without the negative connotation that this word has for us. The Catholic faith is mixed with shamanism, spirits and superstition.
The church in Ecuador was separated from the state as early as 1895
Religion became a private matter, which meant that religion no longer had a public function, not just a state one. Since then, religious education has not been taught in state schools and there is no church tax. Religious feeling plays a very important role for people. It is reflected in the veneration of statues of saints and images of the Virgin Mary. Anyone who has read some of my blog posts will know how I feel about religion and this may seem a little too kitschy for us German tourists at times.
However, there seems to be a difference between religion and religious feeling, because very few people actually practise their faith. They do not go to church regularly, nor do they observe the commandment of Sunday rest. So even in churches you often find a mixture of such rites in paintings or in the woodwork on the walls. And not least in the works of street artists in the streets of Quito, but also in the Contemporary Art Museum.
(One picture seen in different lights brings different truth)
Democracy and Streetart
I am surprised by the large number of works by street artists in the museum. Unlike usual, they were not curated here, but simply allowed to work together. This means that you can also see works that are critical of the government.
Democracy in Ecuador?
And that brings me to the subject of democracy in Ecuador. During our trip through this country, there were voices saying that Ecuador is by no means a democratic country.
An example that shows the opposite:
Ecuador was the first nation to decide against fossil fuel extraction in a referendum in 2023. In the referendum, Ecuador’s voters were asked to decide whether the oil deposits in Yasuní National Park should remain in the ground instead of being further extracted. The result: 59 per cent of voters voted in favour of leaving the oil where it has been for millions of years. It is a historic result, and not just for Ecuador. The first time that a nation has decided by referendum in favour of protecting nature and against the extraction of fossil fuels.
It remains to be seen whether people will vote for a less corrupt president at the next election. Corruption is one of the biggest problems in South America and therefore also in Ecuador.
Just in case you’re interested
In 2006, Rafael Correa of the socialist party was elected president. He introduced many social reforms in the country. In 2008 a new constitution was approved by a referendum and subsequently adopted by his government. In the 2013 presidential election, Correa was re-elected in the first round. His third term in office lasted until 2017. In these 10 years, the people achieved a lot and the calm time, no revolutions, enabled them to build something.
The new president, Lenin Moreno, has been in government since 2017. In addition to the short-term but very high income from the oil industry, the current government sees tourism in particular as a long-term economic alternative for the country. However, export products such as roses, crabs, minerals and bananas are also being promoted. His promises of education for all, including free university places and improved medical care, have not been kept. On the contrary, they have worsened.
Incase you are now interested to hear more, just book a tour with: Edwin. He is the best to get an inside of Quito via mail, WhatsApp or use his Instagram.
We did the cycling tour with Edwin on a Sunday and we also loved the food tour to find out about all the delicious vegetarian food.
Some more impressions of Quito
A city that is worth visiting for more than one day. There is so much more to explore than just the historical part of Quito.
