Maybe you know the feeling too. You’ve traveled far, you’ve seen a desert or two, you’ve managed to survive in megacities, you’ve swum under the 99th waterfall, and how many sunsets it was last week on the beach, I don’t know. In short, you’ve seen it all and no sleepy little town can surprise you anymore.
Or is it possible?
I mean, I really thought I had completed the travel puzzle. Then I stumble across Mompox. Yes, that’s right, Mompox. No, it’s not a new superfood that you can buy in the health food store and it’s not the first anti-wrinkle cream that really helps. It’s a small colonial town in the middle of Colombia. And, oh man, this town really got me!
Imagine you’re on a boat floating leisurely down the brown Magdalena River along with small and larger islands of water hyacinths also floating down the river. On the left you see nothing but lush jungle, on the right… well, jungle too.
But then, out of nowhere, it appears: Santa Cruz de Mompox.
Okay, we didn’t come here by boat, but on our bicycles. But the boat simply sounds more romantic.
This city is like a well-kept secret. Maybe it’s because it’s not that easy to get there. There are only a few buses. That doesn’t make it so attractive.
As soon as we arrive, time seems to slow down. And once again I ask myself why we Germans always have to optimize our time.
The residents chat through the ornate iron grilles that adorn almost every house window (they are a sign of wealth and status). And older men and women sit in front of their houses on old wooden chairs – seemingly for hours – and are happy to say “Buenas Dias” every time I pass by.
They are sweeping and working everywhere. Under a tree (the streets are lined with these cooling trees) in front of a house, pedicures are being done and neighbors walking by immediately join in the conversation. Children play tag and a house is being built somewhere, but there’s time.
When it gets too hot around midday, the residents disappear into their houses and wait the rest of the day, swinging in their rocking chairs with open windows and fans, for the cooler evening. Then they come out again, sit outside their houses and enjoy another “Buenas Tardes”. Life on the streets is back.
The people here in Mompox seem content and happy.
Yes, it’s the people who make this place so special. Otherwise it would just be another place with pretty houses, cafés and restaurants by a river. You can hear Spanish music coming from the houses everywhere and somehow it almost makes you want to dance. What a serenity. This city is so relaxed. Time seems to slow down here – almost like a slow-motion turtle race. You no longer drink your coffee, you celebrate it. And the heat? Let’s put it this way: after India, this is a warm bath. You’re sweating, so what? They all do. Shirts and T-shirts that are soaking wet cool you down again.
Mompox has so much charm
And even before I realize all this, I realize that this city has enchanted me with its charm. Who would have thought that? Certainly not me.
At the end of my stay in Mompox, I ask myself how it was possible that I had never heard of a city like this before. Maybe it’s just that sometimes all it takes is a small, unassuming place to remind us that the best is often where you least expect it.
But that’s the beauty of traveling – you think you’ve seen it all, and then Mompox comes along and overturns all your assumptions. So, next time you’re thinking about where to go on your trip, remember this little place. And take a few extra memory cards for your camera. You’ll need them.
And we’re staying, 4 days. And because the people don’t just “live” in their houses, but also on the streets, I soon feel at home. I know some of them by now and we greet each other. What must it be like when you’ve been here for more than a week? “You don’t visit Mompox in passing, you go to Mompox and stay.” That’s what the locals say about their town.
A bit about the history of Mompox
Mompox, also known as Santa Cruz de Mompox or Mompós, is a town in Colombia, 125 miles south of Cartagena.
Magnificently preserved buildings from the early Spanish colonial period line the streets. No cruise ships land here and tourism comes mainly from within the country; the town is virtually unknown outside Colombia.
The insignificant town, founded in 1537, developed into a central trading center for precious metals, hides, wood and agricultural products. Traders, craftsmen and slaves from Africa were joined by large landowners, miners, civil servants and priests from Spain. The Catholic orders in particular tried to outdo each other and built churches and monasteries along the flat riverbank, which was protected by a massive harbor wall.
The history of Mompox is a story of wealth to decay
For the first 300 years of its existence, it was a success story. The town’s remote location helped make it a safe place for wealthy Spaniards and traders to hide their gold and other treasures from pirates. The city’s self-confidence was so great that in 1810 it became the first Colombian city to declare its independence from Spain.
And then everything went wrong.
By the middle to end of the 19th century, the surrounding Magdalena River was almost silted up. Traders began to navigate the river elsewhere. The town’s prosperity came to an end. The town’s location on an island meant that it was effectively abandoned where modern steamboats could no longer sail. Mompox lost its position to the port city of Magangué and sank into a 150-year slumber. To make matters worse, the entire Magdalena Valley became a battleground between guerrillas and paramilitaries in the 1980s and early 1990s, making it a no-go zone for outsiders.
But in 1995, the upswing began when UNESCO recognized the valley as a World Heritage Site. And with the withdrawal of the warring factions in recent years, tourism has also regained a foothold, giving this perfectly preserved colonial jewel new hope for prosperity. Today it seems to be a very safe place, which is anything but a matter of course in Colombia – a place where it is easy to come into contact with the local population.
One of the hottest spots in Colombia
Mompox is considered one of the hottest places in Colombia. We can confirm this feeling. We walked along the river in the morning and evening hours and marveled at the iguanas and we went to the same restaurant every day for a light, simple lunch and bought fruit and vegetables from the local traders. We hid from the heat in the shade in front of a fan in our hostel. It’s time for a rest. Wonderful, this monotonous boredom that is spreading.
Of course, we also have a lot to organize.
I know, you’re thinking: I’d like to go on vacation like that. And honestly, I often ask myself why we have so much more organizational stuff than if we had just stayed at home!
There’s the tax office with inquiries about our apartment because the post office doesn’t forward their letters despite forwarding orders. There’s Amazon, with purchases that we haven’t made. Change of password and because of the additional confirmation via SMS to the German number in Colombia now somehow hopeless. Our German mobile provider only works again in Panama. The boat trips from Colombia to Panama cost different amounts depending on your negotiating skills. And where do we get the exit stamp and where do we get the entry stamp? We need dollars for all of this. The banks here don’t change and the ATMs only give a maximum of 100-150 euros per day.
But we need more. In Panama the currency is dollars again. But we won’t be able to get to an ATM until we get back to Panama City. And then there’s the question: where to change money here in Colombia? Quite simple: in a shoe-underpants-backpack store. Where else. Man, are we stupid
And last but not least, the mosquitoes are on the increase. We take malaria prophylaxis again. Of course, we can get it without a prescription from the pharmacies. It’s just the quantity that’s difficult. But hey, if it were easy….
So, Mompox is a “must”.
I certainly rarely say that. And you won’t be disappointed. Spending the night in one of these colonial-style houses or surviving the midday heat in the restaurants and cafés under the fans on the incredibly high ceilings is really something special.
History of Mompox in Streetart
The jewel of a car
Architecture evokes emotions, but the same applies to cars. That’s why I don’t want to withhold this gem from you, which we discovered shortly before Mompox.
Today, cars usually “look” pretty evil. That used to be different. You can clearly see it in this specimen: more of a childish look. Works well for me at least. The car immediately evoked all kinds of cute emotions as we rolled past it. A Chevrolet from 1954. It’s a heartbreaking sight, once loved, once a majestic machine, now forgotten, left to decay. The ravages of time are gnawing away at it. Neglected, exposed to the elements, the paintwork faded, the chrome rusted. No more engine hum.
The passage of time: this once “living” vehicle, a symbol of style and innovation, now stands as a silent witness to decades gone by. Something like a time capsule that could tell stories, but doesn’t reveal them. And this “face”? That is intentional. Cars should evoke emotions, and this is all the easier if they imitate human facial expressions.
