When I write about El Salvador, we have already left this country and entered Guatemala. There will only be this one report. Just like the other countries before, Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua, it is a small country and it will take us less than 2 weeks to cross. And it’s time to think about cycling in some parts of Latin America. Knowing full well that we still have a long way to go with Mexico.
Cycling in Latin America – never boring
Hip, life-threatening, circus-ready – cycling in Latin America is all sorts of things, but never boring. And somehow it is always a reflection of society. Of course, the latter doesn’t just apply to Latin America.
We are often ridiculed or looked at questioningly. Cycling is more for the poor who can’t afford a car. Even for picnics, people usually use motorized vehicles. Or even to do sports on a bike. People load their bikes onto their cars, pollute the environment for miles on end and then enjoy the green trails with the good air while cycling.
Hiking or cycling somewhere and then taking a snack out of your backpack in the middle of nature – that’s pretty exotic. And so we are somehow always smiled at when we sit by the roadside and have a picnic. Sometimes people nod benevolently, wave or simply smile. It’s hard to understand why the rich from the West don’t sit in restaurants but at the side of the road.
Cycle paths for election campaign funds?
Of course, corruption does not stop at cycling. Cycle paths and environmental protection are popular at the moment and you can probably promote them abroad and get funding. But the implementation, at least what we have seen so far, has been rather lacking.
A strip around 1.50 meters wide was simply chopped off the side of a normal road – and that’s it. The problem: two-lane roads became one-lane roads. And because hawkers or restaurants often occupy the sidewalks, pedestrians have to use the cycle paths – and cyclists have to weave their way through the cars again. Well, that’s another topic.
Shouted anger on the cycle path
I think that I’m a fundamentally kind person and can conjure away rising anger with a smile. But then, on some days, I get on my bike and convince myself otherwise. On the bicycle I mutated into Rambo. I have to. Otherwise I’ll go crazy.
The others are the problem. The drivers who park on the cycle path. The traders who set up their stalls on it. The shopkeepers who use it as a terrace, garage or loading zone. The pedestrians who take a leisurely stroll on it while talking on their phones – the people who steal the manhole covers and other parts of the ground on the cycle path. That’s only if there is a cycle path at all.
If there isn’t one and there’s no hard shoulder, then it’s even worse for my composure.
They overtake far too close, far too fast for no reason. Overtaking only to turn right 0.5m in front of us. At least they honk before they make a dangerous maneuver. Sometimes. Sometimes they don’t.
Anger instead of Zen
I tried Zen. Breathe in. Breathe out. Acceptance. But this feeling of powerlessness was killing me. I have no desire to feel like the victim that I am. That’s why I’m yelling now. Words like:
Eeeeeeeehhhhh! Eeeeeyyy!
Idiot!
Assholes!
Complete idiots!
Dung beetle!
Of course I shout in German and hope that nobody understands me. Some swear words are even worse. My repertoire is limited. Inwardly, I curse them at length. I wish them a slow, agonizing death and imagine various diseases. And that the first thing that falls off is their genitals. I pedal harder and harder. You can guess which sex has the most culprits. The law of the strongest and richest prevails. As a female cyclist, I often feel like vermin that can be run over with impunity.
After all, in Lima we saw what could be achieved with the loans for a fast cycle path. And yes, it is a real cycle path in one of the outlying districts. A cycle path that has not only been reclaimed from the road, but runs through a green area. Free of any noisy and smelly car traffic. Certainly a good investment for Lima. For such a large city, of course, it’s just a start. But still.
Conclusion Cycling on the Pan-American Highway or other main routes.
Cycling on the Interamericana is a dangerous undertaking. Chivas and minibuses slide onto the hard shoulder without warning and the general driving style is… well, let’s just say it’s enthusiastic. The constant honking is both confusing and terrifying. I’m trying to decipher which honk is which:
1. get the hell out of my way
2. hey, I’m warning you, I’m approaching at high speed
3. i’m going to scare the hell out of you
4. ola gringo on a bike! Glad you’re here.
5. watch out, I overtake
6. watch out, I don’t overtake.
And what does all this have to do with El Salvador?
A lot, because none of this applied on our route in El Salvador. The drivers were extremely considerate, no dangerous overtaking maneuvers, and someone had taught them what a brake is for and that you can take your foot off the accelerator.
Don’t ask how it can be that such behavior begins and ends with a limit. But it does. Here in El Salvador, they sometimes even keep their backs to us, whether in tight bends or dark tunnels.
The second winner in terms of consideration was Chile. Then a long way behind, in last place was Peru. Somewhere in between were Colombia, Ecuador, Nicaragua, Panama and Costa Rica.
We had a wonderful time on our routes in El Salvador. But of course it was short, because El Salvador is also a really small country. So after 10 days we are already out again and crossing the border into Guatemala.
Pizza and 6-packs
In the meantime, we’ve probably eaten 5 pizzas and seen more surfers and 6-packs in this country than ever before in my life.
All the clichés are fulfilled here in El Tunco: the surfer boy style in “Surfin’ El Salvador”. And, the moustache is back 🙂
We fed dogs close to starvation, crossed 5 tunnels and enjoyed the ocean.
It was a really nice time for us, in our bubble, among all the tourists. Mostly isolated from the rest of this country, from the people who live in El Salvador. I would almost say that this is the country where I have experienced the least what it is like to live here.
Contrary to popular belief, we can also enjoy it. And, it really is beautiful here. The sand here is very fine and deep black. The black sand is formed from eroded volcanic material such as lava and basalt rock and is typically found on beaches near volcanic activity. And there are plenty of them in El Salvador.
The smallest country in Central America is located on the so-called Pacific Ring of Fire, where most of the world’s supervolcanoes are located, with 170 volcanoes, over a dozen of which are active volcanoes.
Bitcoin – El Salvador, the only country in the world where bitcoin is an official means of payment
We have seen places where you could pay with Bitcoin. 2021, El Salvador introduced Bitcoin as a means of payment and began pumping state money into the cryptocurrency. It hasn’t really caught on with the population. Not yet? We met a Dutch woman who is considering emigrating to El Salvador. Because she believes in Bitcoin. What a strange reason! Incidentally, El Salvador no longer has its own currency. Payment is made in US dollars.
But with all the beautiful days in the tourist strongholds, of course we cannot ignore the poverty outside that we see on our stages, among people and animals. The garbage problem here is also unbelievable and the dirt and noise that cars, buses and trucks make on the streets is unbelievable.
Anyway, we have the best cycling time in Central America in this country and the food also suits us very well. Thanks to the truckers, we always find really good restaurants. They know where it’s good and cheap. So we only have to stop where there are lots of trucks. Then we have banana, bean paste, potatoes and avocado.
And last but not least, there was the turn-off to Berlin. Puuhhh
Good by El Salvador, hello Guatemala.
